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385 Treadmaster DModerators: Treadmaster Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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| Teal2 |
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New user Posts: 2 | I am inquiring about the suitability of some cork/rubber composite rolls of 385 TREADMASTER D (width 908mm (35 7/8") thickness 5.8mm) , which I have in stock, that I was proposing to use for internal floor covers in my yacht? It is charcoal coloured one side and continuously marked MADE IN ENGLAND 385 TREADMASTER D in the center of the coil on the other side. All D's in words and the 8 are of a smaller font than the other capitals. In particular I would like to know: What the product was spicifically designed for? Is the product suitable for internal floor coverings? Is the charcoal colour side a paint surface? Is this surface a good wearing surface? Is it a better wearing surface than the natural colour side? What routine cleaning process is recommended for the product? Can the surface be repainted, maintaining its current resilience? Is the charcoal colour still available? What bonding product would you recommend to use if the product is suitable? | ||
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| Brian |
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Member Posts: 12 | Hi Teal, An interesting enquiry - I wonder where these rolls have been all these years! Treadmaster D was never a retail item, but was used quite extensively for bus and train floors, so in that context has excellent wear characteristics. We're not sure about the 385 - it might have been some sort of batch number. It was last made as Treadmaster D somewhere around the mid-eighties, so your sheets are probably more than 25 years old. The charcoal side is not painted - no coating was ever applied. As manufactured, both sides would have been charcoal, which is just a fine layer of the pigmented rubber that smoothes over the surface during production. One side was finally sanded to give a good surface for bonding to the floor. The sanding exposed the cork granules, which changed the appearance. After all these years it is very likely that some blooming will have occurred on one or both surfaces. This is powdery/waxy substances in the material that slowly migrate to the surface, and need to be removed from the back bonding surface, or the sheet may not stick properly. You can do this by scrubbing thoroughly with Treadmaster Cleaner made up in warm water. Rinse well and allow to dry thoroughly before bonding. Be careful with the top charcoal surface - although it wears well in normal use on buses and trains, the rubber skin can be scratched fairly easily, so clean this side with Treadmaster Cleaner and a soft cloth or mop. For routine cleaning, just use dilute Treadmaster Cleaner appplied with a soft mop or cloth, rinse and dry. Normally the surface would not be painted. It could however be painted if required, with Treadmaster Treadcote, normally used to rejuvenate Treadmaster Original. The closest colour would be the standard Grey, although this may not be as dark as the charcoal. For bonding you could use either Treadmaster Marine Contact Adhesive or Treadmaster Marine Epoxy Resin. My preference would be for the epoxy resin - it's more durable and gives a stronger bond - especially important here as the sheet has been rolled up for so long and may resist being laid out flat. It would certainly have to be well weighted down, especially at the edges, as a 6mm thickness with a long-term curl will probably try quite hard to roll itself up again! The modern-day replacement for Treadmaster D is Treadmaster TM3. It is available in charcoal, but I wouldn't guarantee how close the colour match with Treadmaster D would be. Hope this helps. Brian | ||
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| Teal2 |
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New user Posts: 2 | Brian, Thanks for your quick response. The rolls other than a little bloom are in excellent condition. The surplus government stock was purchased at auction some years ago and have laid on top of a wonderland of collected machinery in a friends shed. Your correspondence raises some additional questions, in particular edge joint gluing. As I recollect the bus flooring there were aluminium hold down or rubber edge strips wedges used. As I am proposing a full floor cover in the three cabins of my 10m yacht, I was considering leaving a 4-6 mm gap on all peripheral edges and joints and filling the void with sika. Your advice that the rubber skin can be scratched fairly easily raised some doubt, on my part, of my ability to perform this sikering task well without the sanding process. I seek further advice on: Your recommended procedure to join the sheet edges? Your recommended sheet cutting process, snips or blades? Are there any special stanley like blades available for cutting the sheets? As I have several rectangular bilge inspection plates, that require covering, in each sheet to be laid. The rolls have an excellent grip and resilience feeling under foot, does the painted product exhibit similar characteristics? Your recommended painting procedure spray, roll or brush? Is your cleaner good if galley or engine oil spills occur? An agent in Australia, Brisbane my nearest capital, where I can purchase your products ? Sincerely, Rob King | ||
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| Brian |
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Member Posts: 12 | Hello Rob, For edge joining I would leave a narrow gap of approx 3mm between sheets, then use a suitably coloured flexible silicone rubber sealant to fill along the joins. To keep it neat I would first mask carefully along both edges of the join. Fill the joint and use a small flat scraper to level off. Be sure to remove the masking tape as soon as you have finished filling, before it has a chance to adhere too hard to the Treadmaster. Cutting - a standard stanley knife blade is best for this. Painting - only paint if you really need to. As you say, the rubber surface does have excellent grip, and the painted surface is probably not quite as good. I have found the best way to get good even coverage is to use a short pile gloss roller. You will not do it with a brush. I have not tried spraying - Treadcote is fairly thin, so it may work OK. Cleaning - Treadmaster Cleaner is good for engine oil spills, but a word of caution - if oil is left for any length of time on a rubber/cork flooring it will tend to penetrate below the upper skin and can stain the cork granules blackish. Your charcoal colour is probably quite good at concealing this, but the best advice is to clean up any spills immediately to avoid problems. Supply - I doubt if there are supplies available in Australia. Your best bet is to contact our Customer Services department on +44 1579 320808 or email sales@tiflex.co.uk for advice on supplying direct from England. Regards, Brian | ||
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385 Treadmaster D